Threading Heritage Through Time and Space

Kente: Threading Heritage Through Time and Space

Kente cloth is more than a textile, it is a visual language that embodies the history, values and creativity of Ghana and broader African cultures. Woven on wooden looms in vibrant strips, the cloth has become synonymous with ceremonies and rites of passage. Though mass-produced prints now appear on runways and in high-street fashion, authentic Kente remains a carefully crafted art form passed down through generations of weavers in towns like Bonwire and Agotime-Kpetoe. Each pattern has a name and message. Some  commemorate unity or individuality, while others record major events and others tell of the societal rank of the person wearing,  allowing the cloth to tell stories through colour and design.

Origins in the Ashanti Empire

Early development

• Royal beginnings: Oral traditions trace Kente to before the 17th-century Ashanti kingdom of Ghana. The cloth originated in Bonwire, where men used raffia and cotton to weave narrow bands that were sewn together to make a toga-like garment worn by royalty. An Asantehene (king) established a weaving factory to refine techniques; Danish observers noted that by the late 18th century the artisans unravelled imported silks, dyed them and wove intricate patterns. Over time, weavers mastered silk, producing cloths in various colours and sizes.

• Weaving as knowledge: Weaving was traditionally a male practice learned through apprenticeship. Craftsmen sat at narrow wooden looms to create strips using locally produced cotton, raffia and silk, dyed with natural ingredients. Families in weaving communities handled every stage from spinning to marketing. Weavers often spent days or weeks on a single strip, reflecting the labour embedded in each cloth.

• Patterns with meaning: Kente motifs convey stories and proverbs. Pattern names like Obaakofoo Mmuman ("one person does not rule a nation”) and Emaa Da ("it has never happened before") encode wisdom. The cloth thus becomes a narrative medium: elders and chiefs select patterns to mark occasions like coronations or to honour social values. The use of colour, too, is symbolic; gold signifies status and glory, green evokes renewal and fertility, blue stands for spiritual purity, and red often marks sacrifice.

Global Rise and Propriety

Early exchange and colonial era

European traders encountered Kente during the trans-Atlantic trade. Missionaries and merchants purchased doth exposing it to foreign markets. Within Ghana, the cloth remained a symbol of heritage, identity and unity. Meanwhile, colonial administrations attempted to appropriate and commercialise Kente by making kente prints, but the authenticity and cultural control of Kente stayed with Ghanaian weavers.

Mass production and fashion

Modern technology allowed mass-produced printed Kente patterns to flood markets, often manufactured outside Ghana. These prints made the aesthetic accessible but raised concerns about cultural appropriation and economic exploitation. High-fashion designers incorporated Kente-inspired motifs into collections, sometimes without acknowledging its cultural significance. Debates intensified when global brands unveiled Kente prints on runways, prompting calls for respect and proper attribution. Nevertheless, Kente's visibility also highlighted Ghanaian artistry and sparked interest in authentic cloth, leading to initiatives for protecting geographic indications and ensuring ethical sourcing.

Recognition as intangible heritage

In December 2024, Kente weaving was recognised by UNESCO as part of the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. The designation acknowledges the art's cultural significance and calls for measures to preserve skills and support communities in Bonwire and Agotime, which are the two major weaver cities of Kente in the country. 

A woman wearing traditional vibrant, multicolored African fabric with gold jewelry, including necklaces, bracelets, and a headpiece, standing indoors with another person behind her, who is also dressed in a black and white polka dot outfit.
Group of men, some wearing traditional attire, standing indoors, smiling at the camera.
A woman in traditional African attire exiting a vehicle with assistance from a chauffeur dressed in a uniform, on a city street.

Kente in American Graduation Ceremonies

Origins of the tradition

The use of Kente cloth in U.S. academic ceremonies emerged in the early 1990s. In 1993, faculty at West Chester University introduced a ritual called the Donning of the Kente to honour African-American graduates for overcoming barriers. During the ceremony, graduates wear Kente stoles, often draped by a chosen elder, to signify heritage and achievement. The tradition spread across colleges and high schools, becoming a powerful rite of passage for students of African descent in the country.

Meaning of the stole

For graduates, the Kente stole functions as a tangible link to African heritage. The act of wearing Kente transforms one's body into a "living, breathing proverb" that displays ancestral wisdom. Its patterns symbolise resilience, community and excellence. Many institutions incorporate Ghanaian drumming, dance and oratory into the ceremony, reinforcing cultural pride and continuity.

Today, thousands of students across the U.S. and beyond participate annually.

Empowering Moments and Global Symbolism

Kente has been used to convey solidarity and resistance in political and social movements. In June 2020, U.S. lawmakers wore Kente stoles while kneeling in the Capitol to honour George Floyd and protest racial injustice. The gesture sparked debate about cultural appropriation and whether the use of Kente by politicians honoured or commodified Ghanaian heritage. Earlier, some lawmakers wore Kente strips during a State of the Union address to express support for African nations, demonstrating that the cloth can speak without placards.

Beyond the U.S., Kente has been donned by world leaders, athletes and artists to celebrate African identity and challenge stereotypes. Its presence in diasporic gatherings, independence, anniversaries and empowerment campaigns underscores how a textile can become a vessel for collective memory and activism.

Kente in the Global Market Today

Economic significance

Authentic Kente continues to be produced by artisans in Ghana. Weavers work in Bonwire, Adawomase, Agotime-Kpetoe where families collectively manage spinning, dyeing, weaving, trading and even tourism. Kente cloths are made in narrow strips and sewn together, even a simple cotton Kente can require days to weeks of labour. The labour-intensive nature and cultural value of the cloth justify its cost.

Global demand and challenges

Demand for Kente has grown among diaspora communities and global consumers seeking cultural connection. Online platforms enable artisans to reach customers worldwide, boosting incomes and reducing youth migration. Tourism to weaving towns also provides revenue and fosters cultural exchange. However, imitation cloths mass-produced in Asia threaten livelihoods and dilute cultural meanings. Some young people may be less inclined to learn the craft, raising concerns about transmission of knowledge. Governments and NGOs support weavers with training, marketing and material sewers while proposals for geographic indication protection aim to ensure that only cloth woven in the defined region can bear the Kente name.

Contemporary fashion and innovation

Designers worldwide incorporate Kente patterns into garments, accessories and art. While such collaborations have opened new markets, they also raise questions about authenticity and appropriation. Ghanaian designers advocate for partnerships that respect the craft and involve local artisans. The interplay between tradition and innovation ensures that Kente remains dynamic, integrating contemporary colours or motifs while preserving its narrative essence.

Three people holding hands on stage in front of a large crowd. They are dressed in colorful traditional African clothing, and the woman on the right is wearing sunglasses and a wide-brimmed hat.
Group of graduates wearing green caps and gowns, holding hands up, at a graduation ceremony in a stadium filled with spectators.
Group of people kneeling on the floor, wearing face masks and colorful scarves, in a spacious indoor setting, possibly a church or public building, engaging in a prayer or moment of reflection.

Kente cloth tells a story of resilience, artistry and cultural pride. From its royal origins in the Ashanti kingdom to its modern role in graduations and global protests, the cloth has transcended its materiality to become a symbol of identity and empowerment around the globe. Its patterns encode proverbs and history, its colours speak of values and its stitches weave communities together. As Kente enjoys renewed visibility on the global stage, preserving its authenticity and supporting the artisans who create it are vital. Ethical appreciation, accompanied by proper attribution and fair compensation will ensure that this remarkable textile continues to narrate its stories for generations to come. 

Queen Elizabeth II and a woman in colorful traditional African attire talking in a palace or formal setting.
Three men standing in a luxurious room with ornate decor, including a large mirror, gold accents, and a painting on the wall. The two men on the sides are wearing vibrant traditional African clothing, while the man in the middle is dressed in a forma
Three women in colorful traditional African clothing and one woman in a white blazer and beige pants engaging in conversation on stage with dark curtains in the background.
A black and white photograph of two women dancing together, surrounded by other people.
A black and white photo of two women dancing together at a social event, with onlookers in the background.
A cultural ceremony with men dressed in traditional vibrant attire, gold jewelry, and headpieces, gathered outdoors under coverings, while a photographer captures the event.
Group of people dressed in colorful traditional African attire, participating in a cultural ceremony outdoors.
A man dressed in a colorful, patterned kente cloth garment, with glasses, walking on a red carpet, accompanied by security personnel in uniform. Background includes an outdoor crowd.
Two men dressed in traditional attire, one in a red and black robe and the other in colorful patterned clothing with accessories, holding an ornate umbrella and a furry fan.
A black and white photograph of two men standing outdoors, one dressed in traditional African clothing and the other in a suit and tall hat.
A man dressed in colorful traditional African attire, adorned with numerous gold jewelry, including necklaces, rings, bracelets, and rings, poses in a vibrant setting.
A historical black and white photograph of two men in a formal setting. One man, bald and in a suit, stands with his hand on his hip, while the other man, wearing traditional African clothing, appears to be speaking or explaining something to the fir
A black-and-white photo of a woman in traditional African attire receiving a scroll from a man in formal suit, with four men in suits standing nearby, in front of a monument or statue.
Two people wearing traditional African clothing, shaking hands and smiling.
A young boy in a suit holding books, and an older woman wearing a patterned dress, standing outside a house and talking to each other.
People dressed in traditional colorful African clothing seated outdoors under a canopy at a cultural event.
A person in colorful traditional dress and jewelry, holding a staff with a feather and wearing a headband decorated with yellow and purple beads, participating in a cultural ceremony or celebration.
A man wearing traditional colorful Kente cloth walking in front of a military parade with uniformed soldiers in white uniforms standing at attention.
A smiling man dressed in colorful traditional attire, holding a staff, at a cultural celebration with other people in the background.
An older man with glasses, a white beard, and a traditional hat, dressed in colorful patterned clothing, seated at a public event.
Three people celebrating, holding hands, with a rainbow flag in the background. They are smiling and wearing colorful clothing.

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